In Search of Battleship Spur.

So.......this time last week we woke up at Big Bend to find that in the night another camper had arrived and set up his hammock a short distance away. It was he that we had heard snoring in the night.While we were cooking bacon for breakfast, the woman in the white hat who ignored us yesterday came over to say 'hello' and say 'Sorry' that she hadn't said hello yesterday but she had been keen to get her tent set up before dark.She had a bowl of black Chia seeds and powdered milk and we were having bacon and English muffins. She said she and her husband were going to head up to Battleship Spur and we said that was where we hoped to get to as well."See you up there," she said as she wandered off. Not long after the hammock guy wandered over and introduced himself. He was called Nick. It seemed to be a common name around these parts.He seemed to be eating gruel so we offered him a 'bacon butty'."Awesome" he said. Nick said 'Awesome' a lot.....he was easily impressed.He had arrived late the day before and walked down much of the gorge in the dark with just a head torch to light the way. He was moving from Townsville to a new job in Sydney but was taking his time by visiting and photographing different National Parks on the way. He was heading back out and on to Toowoomba later that day.We told him to try and visit Girraween near Stanthorpe......it sounded 'Awesome' to him.After we had breakfast we set off for Battleship Spur. Battleship Spur is part of the Great Walk, a six day trekking trail around the Carnarvon National Park and from the Carnarvon Gorge brochure looked like it started at the end of Boowinda Gorge, a side gorge of the main gorge that we had not yet explored.As it was still early Takarakka campers had not yet made it to this end of the gorge so we walked into Boowinda Gorge alone. It is amazing what the power of water can create as we followed the twists and turns of the gorge and its smooth and towering sides. It was hard going as under foot were loose rocks and boulders.The first 1 km of this side gorge was spectacular but we kept on going, looking out for the path out of the gorge and eventually came to a a spot where there was a fork and were unsure which way to go. I headed up a narrow gorge to the right to check it out, but it was eventually blocked by deep pool. So we both headed up the left fork but that eventually became almost impassible and overgrown so we turned back deciding we must have to go up the right fork after all. We went up the left fork together but when we got to the pool again we were pretty sure it was not the right way so headed back up the right fork again and tried to press on further. We found some wild raspberries which were very tasty but no path out. The gorge was shallow now and the creek was lined by the forest. We did consider just making our own way up the side but were worried about finding our way back. We decided we must have missed the path out but couldn't imagine how or think of any places we had passed where a path up the side would be possible.We started to head back. I was so disappointed that we had missed out on getting to Battleship Spur because I was sure that there would have been a great view back up the Gorge from up there.We stopped and had our lunch in a rare sunny spot as the steep sides often meant that the sun did not reach the bottom.We had not been going long after our lunch when I spotted some odd foot holes cut into a rock on the left.....and then I spotted the small orange arrow on a tree......this was the way up! It looked like it was up a steep overgrown gully....and it was!We set off up it and had hardly started climbing up when we met the white hatted woman and her fella coming down. We told them we had missed the path and had carried on another 2 kms up Boowinda Gorge. They said that they had met some other people who had done the same thing. We asked how far it was and she said it was a steep climb and would take us about an hour to the top."See you later," she said as she continued down.At the top of the cold steep gully we came out into the warm sun and forest. There was a sign warning how the walk ahead was only suitable for those with a high level of fitness and that there was no water until the next camping area 13 kms away. There was a short, round woman sat by the sign. I was amazed that she had made it up to here let alone trekked all the way in from the Visitor Centre. She said her 16 year old son had gone on ahead and said he would be back in half an hour. We said we would tell him to hurry up if we saw him.We set off through the trees and the path slowly climbed up. It was a good path up here.....it was a pity that they had not made it clearer at the bottom.Will and I were both quite tired after our lengthy foray up Boowinda Gorge and we were resting on some steps when the 16 year old lad came past. He looked hot and sweaty."How far did you get?" I asked."Oh, I went about 3 kms further on and then thought 'stuff it!'"He ran off down to his Mum.....they still had a 10 km walk out again to the visitor centre.A bit further on we met two young lads, one was English and the other American, they were coming down too."You've done the worst of it" said the American lad."No, they still have a fair way to go," said the English lad. He looked at his phone and said, "We left the top about 40 minutes ago." They looked so fresh and clean and smelled wonderful.......we felt like stinky tramps.The path went ever up and we were amazed that many of the steps were made of pre-formed concrete that must have been flown in by helicopter to make that path. I was getting more and more weary so we stashed the back pack under a Macrozamia tree and carried on up.We came to a large metal ladder attached to a rock and climbed up. The spur was getting closer. The path followed a narrow ridge where the hillside fell away on both sides. We still had to climb up above the upper escarpment, the path up it had more pre-formed concrete blocks and there was a lot of damage to the path caused by feral pigs. Eventually the path levelled out as we got over the last slope. We still had a short walk to go. We found another sign saying that the next campground was 10 kms off to the left but we went right and finally arrived at the top of Battleship Spur.The view was fabulous and it was amazing to see how small those towering gorge walls looked form up here. It had taken us 2 hours from when we started the climb up.I was knackered to say the least. We still had to go all the way back but I was pleased that we had done it and the view was worth the effort.We didn't hang around too long at the top before heading back down the way we had come collecting the back pack on the way.I had been hoping to see an echidna, as I have not seen one yet here in the wild in Australia. Will was looking out for one and said that we should try positive visualisation and he said "There will be an echidna over this next hill."There was!.....a big one, but by the time we reached it, it had crammed itself into a small hole to escape us.Finally we came to the steep gully down back into the Gorge. It was hard going and I could not remember when I had felt so tired before......and we still had over a kilometre walk out of the gorge on those loose rocks and boulders.I was so pleased to see Big Bend again."Ah, you made it!" The woman with the white hat greeted us."Michael and Rowan have joined us in the camp, you will see them when you go in. They slept last night up on the Spur."Michael and Rowan, father and son, turned out to be the people the guy we met at Ward's Canyon on our way in, had said were heading off to the next campsite on the Great Walk. They told us that was what they had intended to do but they had missed the way up like us and had gone up Boowinda Gorge as far as we had. In the end they decided to pitch their tent at Battleship Spur and came back down today.Michael was very laid back while Rowan cooked their tea. It turned out Rowan was Steiner educated. They had boil in the bag meals......they were amused that we had brought bok choy and fennel with us as part of our meals.Melanie, the white hatted lady came over to chat too. She was a language  teacher in a girls school. Will and I went off to get our meal ready then went back to sit with Michael and Rowan. Melanie had returned to her tent.We were all in bed by 7.30 pm. The forecast was for frost in the morning.

Angourie Point

To 'Big Bend.'

So.......this time last week, we woke for the last time, this trip, at Takarakka.There were kangaroos nibbling grass close by as we had our breakfast. Limpy and Nick were leaving today too but we were heading down the gorge to 'Big Bend' for two nights.We took the tent down and packed our rucksacks and headed back to the Visitor Centre car park and left Roxy there.We rang Shirley and Dulcie from a phonebox by the Visitor Centre. While Will was on the phone one of the Rangers came up and asked where we were off to."We are camping at Big Bend for two nights," I said, "Will our car be OK parked in the car park for that time?""It will be for a Yorkshireman," he said. "Are you from Yorkshire?""No, near Manchester," I said."Ah!, the other side," he said."Yes, the War of the Roses and all that."He was from Sheffield. I told him he now worked in a beautiful place but he knew that.He wished us a good trip and we headed back into the gorge for our second day. Will carried the large rucksack for the first shift and I took over after about 3 kms. A guy near the path to Ward's Canyon asked if we were heading to Big Bend. He had spent the night there last night."Were there many there?" I asked, hoping we would have it to ourselves."There were two other guys" he said, "but they were off on the next part of The Great Walk today."Other people commented on our heavy rucksacks. I just smiled and said "We like a big lunch."After we passed The Art Gallery and where we had seen the snake the previous day we were in new territory.The paths in this part of the gorge were less well trodden and the stepping stones at the creek crossings were not as well placed.Will took over the large rucksack again.We eventually came to Cathedral Cave where there were more Aboriginal paintings on the rocks and still more people eating snacks. I preferred it to The Art Gallery, it felt wilder and more genuine."Not far now" said some people we passed as we continued on our way. "We had our lunch there and it was freezing!"Finally after 9.7 kms we arrived at Big Bend. The cliffs towered over us and in a the bend of the gorge was a small flat wooded area with two composting toilets. There was no one else camping there so we chose a good spot and set up our tent and had some lunch on the picnic table also provided. While we were there a young couple came up and said "What a great spot to camp! Looks like you have it to yourselves."It turned out that these were the people who had arrived with the rattling caravan at midnight the night before. The reason they were so late was because he had stopped for petrol and accidentally filled his car with diesel rather than unleaded and had to  drain his tank.After they had headed back to Takarakka Will and I explored Big Bend and then continued up the gorge a bit further. The path stopped at Big Bend so we just followed the creek bed for about another 2 kms until our way was blocked by a wide pool.We headed back to our tent and set about making our tea. While we were cooking I heard voices and went to look and two more walkers appeared."I can see the toilet" shouted the man to someone else that I could not see. He spotted me and I waved cheerily, "Oh hello," he said.His companion turned out to be a woman in a wide brimmed white hat. We stood by the Picnic table, smiling, waiting for them to come over to chat to us but they just muttered to each other and disappeared out of sight."Oh, they're not happy we are here," I said.They pitched their tent at the complete opposite end of the camping ground.Will and I took our tea and sat on a rock overlooking the creek to eat it in the fading light. After tea I built a rock tower on a large rock and then soon after it was dark we headed to bed.I woke up some time later and heard snoring but it sounded nearby. I couldn't believe that the sound travelled from the other end of the camp ground so clearly.As it turned out it didn't........someone else had arrived in the dark but we did not find that out until the next morning.

Frogknot.....Bye for now.

So........we are no longer at Frogknot and are down in Ashby with Trace and Jen  for the last few days of our break.We were tidying up and packing the car to leave Frogknot when I turned around and found two policemen standing there watching me. I had just finished stuffing a small branch with a nest attached to it into a whole in the outside wall and was holding a large sheep's skull in my hands.

"Hello?" I said. I was very surprised.

They were looking for 116 Garth Lane.

"This is 59 isn't it?" they asked.

"No it is 57," I corrected.

"Do you know where 116 is?"

"Just a minute I'll ask Will," I said. I called him and he appeared around the corner wearing the hat in the picture above, thankfully without the horns, but he was holding a trowel and some garlic.

We must have looked like a pair of Devil worshippers.

Will couldn't help them either.....there is no 116.

"Hmmm, someone has given us a wrong address. You haven't seen a young lad living out here?"

We hadn't.

"That's an interesting house," said one of them. "what is it made from?"

Will told them straw bale but I told them about someone stealing one of the solar panels which led to water getting into the walls hence its slow collapse.

"Can you fix it?" They asked.

"No," we said.

"What are you going to do then?"

"Build another," said WIll.

They laughed, "Just like that, build another eh?."

They had tried to get up the track in their car and abandoned it. "Do you need any help getting out?" WIll asked.

"We'll be fine but if you hear the siren come and help us."

They left us to finish packing up. We never heard the siren.

We left Frogknot about 11.30 and drove to Ashby via Tenterfield, Casino and Lismore where we stopped for some lunch and a wander around the town centre.

Storm clouds were gathering..............................but there was a bit of hope.

Carnarvon Gorge.

So......this time last week we woke up at Takarakka for our first day in Carnarvon Gorge. The Noisy Friar birds were living up to their name. We were up about 7.00 am and had a sausage breakfast. Limpy emerged from his tent and looking at the sky said "Well, you brought the weather with you." It was a clear blue sky. We set off walking from the Visitor Centre by about 8.30 am.

We had overheard a guide at Takarakka the previous day saying that 95% of visitors walk to 'The Art Gallery' first and then visit the other places on their way back. We decided to do the opposite. On the walk we had to cross Carnarvon Creek many times but there were conveniently placed stepping stones at all the crossings. The sides of the Gorge towered above us as we headed into it. You couldn't help but keep looking up....and it reminded me of my first time in New York.....the looking up, that is. Our first detour off the main path was 'The Moss Garden'. It was an area of a side gorge with a small waterfall and a mossy wall onto which water dripped from above. We had it to ourselves for a few moments before others arrived so we moved on.

Our next stop was 'The Amphitheatre'. I didn't know what to expect but what we found was amazing. The path headed to what looked like the sheer gorge wall but as we got closer there was a large metal ladder leading up to a crack in the rock wall. The crack split the cliff face from top to bottom, it was as if two sheer cliff faces had been built within feet of each other. Climbing the ladder we found ourselves in a narrow passage between the two cliffs which lead to 'The Amphitheatre'. We found ourselves at the bottom of a huge oval shaped hole in the ground above. It was incredible and we had it all to ourselves for a few moments before some children arrived, whooping and hollering and cooo-eee ing so we left before I throttled them.

We passed 'Wards Canyon' and headed straight to 'The Art Gallery'. A sign at the entrance said that it was a sacred Aboriginal place where ancestors had been buried and we were to treat it as if it were any other graveyard. We walked in to find quite a lot of people sat on the benches provided having their lunch. Do you always search out a graveyard for your picnic lunch?

On the cliff wall, protected by a slight overhang was Aboriginal drawings, carvings and paintings. There were stencil drawings of hands and boomerangs, shells and lots of oval shaped carvings which looked like and turned out to be representations of vulvas.....I wondered how the picnickers explained that to their children nibbling on tuna sandwiches. The paintings and carvings told of the history of the Aboriginal people in that area but it was not as story I found easy to read. We didn't hang around too long, put off by the many people around us chattering loudly.

We found a quiet spot away from the path by the Creek to have our lunch. Will wanted to head back along by the river until we found the path again but I wanted to just get back on the path. As I made my way back to the path I almost stepped on a snake lying in the sun. I thought they were supposed to move away when they saw you coming.....this one didn't it just sat there. It was a good job I saw it, one more step and I would have trod right on it.

"Well spotted," said Will. I thought you didn't see snakes in Winter.....it was a bit worrying.

We headed back to 'Wards Canyon', a narrow side gorge higher up on the side of the main gorge. Here were King Ferns and apparently this gorge was the only place they are found away from the coast in the whole of Queensland. The gorge was named after the Ward Brothers who, after wondering what they would grow up to be, decided to become Possum Hunters. How brave they must have been. How the people must have looked on in awe as they passed by with their Possum whackers.

We headed back out of the gorge but took the path up to Boolimba Bluff. We could see the where we were headed but wondered how we were going to get up there......we soon found out.......it was a steep climb up a gully but the view at the top was wonderful and well worth the climb.

Back at Takarakka we were pestered by Apostle birds eager for our crisps. We had early showers and then explored the resort, walking up to the 'Lookout' to see the sun go down. We walked to the Platypus pool and found others waiting in the dusk for the platypus to emerge.....we did eventually see one swimming along the bank on the far side.

Back at the tent I showed Limpy my snake picture, Todd's son Samuel wanted to see too and got out his reptile book and we decided it was an Eastern Brown Snake.....they are deadly! Samuel then brought over his camera and was showing me all the things he had taken pictures of, feral pigs, baby red-bellied black snakes, echidnas, fish (his camera was waterproof)....he was a real budding naturalist.

We ate tea looking at Venus and Jupiter shining brightly in the sky and were in bed by 7.30 pm.

Limpy and Nick woke me up talking loudly and brushing their teeth then it sounded like someone was arriving pulling a caravan which rumbled and rattled around the park.....I looked at the clock and it was midnight.......I was looking forward to getting to the peace and quiet of 'Big Bend' tomorrow.....but was also a bit concerned after meeting the snake. I eventually got to sleep.